Hungary’s furmint seems to be having a bit of a moment. You may not have heard of it yet
(and yes, it does sound like a toy for cats), but furmint is a grape variety you’ve quite possibly enjoyed before, without knowing.
The heavenly dessert wines from Tokaji, all marmalade, butterscotch and orange peel, are made from furmint grapes, very late picked for intense sweetness and rendered complex after being shrivelled by the “noble” rot botrytis.
Tokaji has long enjoyed a high-class reputation (“the wine of kings and the king of wines”, Louis XV was said to have called it), but now a few dry versions – inexpensive, light and relatively simple – have started to appear on the high street.