by Caroline Gilby MW

An impromptu visit to St Andrea in March this year turned into an unexpected vertical tasting of some of their top wines.

St Andrea owns 42 hectares across 17 different plots but the high point is at the top of the Nagy-Eged hill, one of the highest vineyard sites in Hungary at 501m. György Lörincz believes in blends to showcase the terroir of Eger and especially in Bikavér to stand up as the region’s flagship red. His top selection is Merengö, which has swiftly become an icon in Hungary – but a wine that repays some ageing – the first ever vintage from 2003 (Lörincz had to buy stock back from Denmark) is still stunning while the current release (2012) is still a baby but with real promise.

György Lörincz and his son (another György Lörincz) are also making small quantities of local varieties to explore their potential so there are a couple of barrels of delicately elegant Kadarka and very refined single vineyard Kékfrankos.