Zoltan Demeter is a legend in the making, if he has not already earned that status, determined to prove that Tokaj is one of the world’s great wine districts, albeit one that lost its way somewhat during the communist era in the 20th century. He farms some seven hectares out of the 4500 that make up the Tokaj wine field today, but his vineyards are very far from contiguous.
His policy has been to buy vines that are over 40 years old in sites that have, or used to have, a good track record. This rediscovery and regeneration of specific ‘terroirs’ is fundamental to his thinking. Zoltan Demeter makes 75% of his wines dry and focus on preserving the individual identities of each single vineyard. The remaining 25% of his production is destined for dessert wine, some of it is the Aszu style of highly botrytised grapes and the rest in the style called Föbor, a late harvest wine made from a single pressing of very sweet, but not necessarily botrytised grapes, a practice that Zoltan considers less contrived and artificial than that for the Aszu wine, and I share his preference for the style. These are all wines of extreme originality.